A Guide to Natural Pearls
Pearls have always fascinated us.
There was a time when pearls were considered the most precious resource in the world, surpassing diamonds. Reserved exclusively for royalty, they embodied the pinnacle of luxury and rarity. Sailors dedicated their lives to searching for these underwater treasures, hoping to discover the rare pearl that would make them rich. Many of them perished, facing the perilous conditions of the deep seas, such as water pressure, lack of oxygen, and marine predators.
At the crossroads between gemstones and organic material, the mysterious pearl stands out as a category unto itself. Here is a comprehensive guide to pearls that I hope will provide you with all the necessary information to know, appreciate, purchase, and care for their iridescent nacre!
What is a pearl?
A pearl forms when an oyster, mussel, or clam protects itself against an "irritant." This "irritant" can be a parasite, a grain of sand, or any other element that enters its shell. To defend itself from this foreign body, the mollusk envelops it in successive layers of nacre. The result of this defense mechanism is a pearl.
All mollusks can produce "pearls," but that doesn't mean all of them are beautiful. Some pearls from mollusks look like ordinary stones, while others are stunning gems with iridescent glints. The mollusks that produce the pearls used in jewelry are primarily freshwater mussels and saltwater oysters.
The two main families of cultured pearls
Today, pearls are cultured, which eliminates the dangers that sailors once faced. There are mainly two large families of pearls: freshwater pearls and saltwater pearls.
Freshwater Pearls
As the name suggests, these pearls come from mussels raised in freshwater bodies, such as rivers and lakes, where the salinity is very low or nonexistent. Each mussel can produce up to 60 pearls at once. They naturally come in a variety of colors, adding to their diversity and charm (shades of white, cream, coral, and pastel pinks and purples). The color depends on the variety of mussel and the environment it lives in, its diet, etc.
Saltwater Pearls
This category of pearls comes from oysters raised in seas and oceans. Many popular pearls belong to this category, including Akoya pearls, Tahitian pearls (black pearls), and South Sea pearls. Unlike freshwater pearls, an oyster can only produce one pearl at a time, and their rarity explains the high price of saltwater pearls. Did you know that one single pearl can cost more than a car?
The qualities of pearls
Several criteria influence the price of a pearl, such as its luster, the condition of its surface, its color, shape, size, etc., but ultimately, it all comes down to its rarity. The rarer a pearl is, the more expensive it will be. There are certain gradings in place, recognized by gemologists specializing in pearls. Thus, a pearl can be of different "grades" (e.g., AAA grade pearl). However, these gradings can vary by region, so it's important to be mindful of where you purchase your pearls to know if the grading is a reliable indicator of their value.
Example of pearl gradation - Source : netbijoux.fr
Animal Cruelty
It is essential to know that the mollusks used for pearl cultivation do not have a complex nervous system like humans, and therefore, they do not feel pain the way we do. They have simple ganglia but no brain, and while they can react to stimuli, their response is not interpreted as a sensation of pain, unlike humans and other animals. They are sometimes considered to be more akin to reproductive systems, closer to plants than animals. Additionally, many misleading videos circulate online about pearl harvesting. These videos show people breaking shells in half, thus killing the mollusk, and removing pearls by hand. In reality, mussels and oysters are only opened a few centimeters during harvesting, and pearl harvesters use small, precise tools to extract the pearl and reintroduce an "irritant" that allows the oyster or mussel to begin forming pearls again. The mollusks are then returned to the water, and the cultivation process continues. That said, their natural environment is modified to facilitate harvesting and to avoid, among other things, exposing harvesters to the same dangerous conditions that sailors faced in the 19th century and earlier.
In light of this information, it's up to you to judge whether you consider pearl cultivation ethical or not. Personally, after taking the "Pearl Gemmology" course with Joanie Beauséjour, FGA-certified gemologist, and studying the conditions in which pearls are raised, I lean toward a favorable view!
The different shapes of pearls
There are different shapes of pearls. Some of these shapes occur naturally. Contrary to popular belief, perfectly round pearls in their natural state are rare. Other shapes can also be created by altering the shape of the irritant introduced into the mollusk during cultivation. Here are some examples of pearl shapes you may have already heard of: round, semi-round, teardrop, baroque, keshi, etc.
Exemple of pearls shapes, spurce : https://www.thepearlmarket.co.uk/
The symbolism of pearls
Now, let's explore the symbolism of pearls in legends and metaphysics. The pearl is soft and feminine. It is a stone of tenderness and humility. Carefully cultivated inside the belly of an oyster or mussel, pearls (and nacre) are often associated with maternity, hence the English name "mother of pearl." They are often linked to the moon, water, and femininity, and represent inner beauty. They are considered jewels of the ocean.
I've always found that jewelry makes the perfect gift for mothers, as it reminds us of feminine love, feminine beauty, and maternity.
Caring for Pearls
When it comes to pearls, prevention is key, as once a pearl is damaged, it cannot be restored. However, with proper care, a pearl can last for generations!
Tip #1
- It is essential to ensure your pearls do not come into contact with hard materials like metals, as this can damage them. Due to their low hardness, pearls are sensitive to friction with materials harder than themselves. Therefore, be careful when wearing multiple necklaces or storing your jewelry. It's best to keep your pearls in soft fabric to avoid scratches and damage.
Tip #2
- Store your pearls in a breathable container (especially not in a plastic airtight container or a safe deposit box). They should not be in a very dry environment for long periods, as they can eventually crack.
Tip #3
- Do not shower or bathe (especially not in a pool) with your pearls.
Tip #4
- Since pearls are made of organic materials, they are sensitive to chemicals that could alter their surface and dull their luster. Avoid contact with chemicals like perfumes, creams, hair sprays, etc. After bathing, dry off before wearing your pearls. Similarly, do not wear your pearls when engaging in activities involving chemicals, such as cleaning with household products.
Tip #5
- If your pearls are mounted on threads, have them restrung regularly (when the pearls start to move between the knots). This way, there will be no friction between the pearls.
Tip #6
- Do not soak your pearls to clean them. Use only very mild soap and a damp cloth if the pearl is very dirty.
Tip #7
- Avoid exposing them to large amounts of sweat, such as during intense physical activities.
By following these tips, you will be able to preserve your pearls for generations.
Conclusion
Natural pearls are treasures of unmatched beauty, carrying with them a unique magic that captivates the eye and imagination with their delicate iridescence. Each pearl tells a story of transformation and mystery, making them an endless source of inspiration for my jewelry creations. Their feminine energy and enchanting charm motivate me to design pieces that reflect this subtle magic. To conclude, I invite you to discover some of my creations adorned with pearls, where each piece embodies this beauty and fairy-like essence.
